London Calling - Day 3

July 17th - Last day to gallivant around London.  Up with the sun (not really, but kind of early) and off to Shakespeare's Globe.  Barbara was really excited about it; I was kind of eh.  It was cooler than I expected, though, and I'm glad to be able to say that I've been.

View of St. Paul's behind us

After The Globe, we headed to the Tate Modern for some art viewing and food chewing.  I've always said I'm not really a modern art person (with a few key exceptions - Matisse, Calder, Picasso) and even as beautiful a museum as the Tate Modern didn't change my mind.

My favorite!

Following lunch and art, we headed back across the Thames for Tower Visit, Take 2.  The weather was being super finicky - raining cats and dogs, then sunny, then back again.  For most of the line to see the Jewels, the weather behaved.  Right before we got in the doors, though, the bottom of the sky fell out.  We let a family with some tiny tater tots cut in front of us to get them out of the deluge, then we got in ourselves.  The line was slow moving, but I really enjoyed seeing the crowns and regalia.

See that sky?  Right before it poured!

We had planned to go to Evensong at Westminster Abbey and then to afternoon tea at the Wolseley, per a suggestion by a friend of Sidney's.  With the weather being as gross as it was, sitting in a nice, dry church sounded ideal!  We made it to the church just after the service had begun (whoops!) and got to sit in the Poets' Corner!  We were literally seated atop Samuel Johnson.  Pretty cool!

Post evensong, we made our way across town to the Wolseley, just across the street from the Ritz near Piccadilly.  The scones and sandwiches and desserts were all so yum!  The service was great and the atmosphere too - nice, but not stuffy, which I think is saying something when you're serving someone tea!

After that, we said farewell to London and returned to Oxford.  Next up?  Gay Paree!

London Calling - Day 2

Yeah, yeah, I'm behind.  You can't really expect me to spend all my time in Europe on the computer, though, can you?!  So where was I?  Oh yeah...

July 16th - First stop on our Saturday in London was the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace.  In a torrential rainstorm.  Gross.  So not only was I soaked and freaking, I kept getting pushed around by annoying Russian tourists.  Oh well.  I passive-aggressively dripped my umbrella water on to them.  If you're going to block my view, you're going to get a wet neck.  I was too busy holding my umbrella to take photos, unfortunately.

Barbara was able to snap one, though.

In an attempt to dry off, we headed indoors to St. Paul's Cathedral.  Sidney had talked about how beautiful it was, but I was so unprepared.  I had a little moment where I was just overwhelmed.  It was that amazing.  Seriously, if you're in London, it's a must see.

Unfortunately, you're not allowed to take pictures of the inside, so I can't show you how incredible it was, but trust me.  in-CRED-ible.

As some of you may know, I have a paralyzing fear of heights.  Except, it's more a paralyzing fear of falling.  High up in a sky scraper behind a wall of glass?  Fine.  On top of a mountain, a solid twenty feet from the edge?  No problem.  But you get me near something I think might break out from under me or a railing I could accidentally topple over?  I turn into a quivering bowl of fear jelly.

So why the hell did I agree to climb to the top of St. Paul's Dome?!  Because, darlings, I'm in Europe and Europe is a time to push yourself into knew experiences!  And guess what - I'm so glad I did!  The first tier, the Whispering Gallery, was the scariest part, because the only thing that separated me from a splattered end was a piddly little metal fence.  Oh, and I was walking around on wood beams that are God knows how old.  Definitely my least favorite part of the climb.

The second tier, though, the Stone Gallery, was amazing.  Such beautiful views of London.  Sid shares my fear of heights, so she took a nap in the pews (shh, don't tell!) while Barbara and I climbed.

562 steps - yay me!

At one point, my sunglasses did fall down a few stairs and I wanted to think, "That could be me."  But I didn't.  Instead, I kept mumbling, "You're not going to fall, you're not going to fall."  And I didn't!  Whoo!

After that, we climbed down, found Sid, and moseyed across the street for some lunch.  The weather, which to that point, had been drippy, was starting to clear up a little, so I got a pretty outside shot of the Cathedral before we decided to try to get to the Tower of London.  The last ticket sales are 30 minutes before close, but the fibbers wouldn't sell us tickets.  So we snapped a few pics of the outside and went ahead and bought our souvenirs in the gift shop, deciding to see the inside the next day.  We are so efficient.

Check out those nasty clouds!

Here, kitty kitty!

London bridge is falling down!*

For those of you in the know, you might recall that a little old movie called Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows - Part II came out the Friday we were in London.  So OF COURSE we had to see it the next night, Saturday.  Sidney's BFF Gwyneth recommended we go to Tacqueria in Notting Hill for some yummy Mexican.  After the gloomy weather all day, that sounded fantastic!  And it was!

Unfortunately, we were in a hurry and had to plow through our meal before running like mad elephants to the theatre (see what I did there, with the British spelling?) to get to the show on time.  And by show, I mean 35 minutes of previews.  Ridiculous.  We could have stayed for dessert if we'd know how many previews British theatres show.  Dumb.

After HP, we decided to hit the hay so we could rise and shine the next morning, cram in a few more sights, and head back to lovely old Oxford that night.  But more about that another time! 

*Yes, I know that's really the Tower Bridge.  Just go with it.

Hot Springs: British Style

On July 9th, after rising and shining following our hellacious evening, the gals and I took the bus into town for breakfast and sightseeing.  I was really excited about Bath, because I'm such a Jane Austen fan.  Jane (we're on a first name basis) lived in Bath from 1800 to 1805 and set two of her novels there - Northanger Abbey (my favorite) and Persuasion (another favorite).

After missing the first bus stop at the city centre, we got off on the second at the train station and walked back.  This was lucky, as it caused us to pass Sally Lunn's, which I remember from one of my guidebooks.

I really enjoyed my Sally Lunn Bun, which had gammon ham, mature cheddar cheese, and mayonnaise on half of a Sally Lunn Bun.  Yum, yum!  If you're ever in Bath, I highly recommend it!

After breakfast, we walked to the Tourism Office to buy our museum tickets.  All together, admission to the Roman Baths, the Fashion Museum, Assembly Rooms, Pump Rooms, and Jane Austen Centre cost less than £20.  A real bargain that will keep you busy all day!

After that, we walked literally 20 yards to Bath Abbey.  It was huge and gorgeous.  I'm such a church freak, though.  I love these old cathedrals, basilicas, and abbeys!

Apparently I'm not the only one who loves churches - the place was JAM PACKED!  After we escaped the throngs of people, we went to stand in line for the Roman Baths, somewhat unnecessarily.  Word to the wise - if you buy your tickets ahead of time at the Tourism Office, you can jump in front of the line!

The Roman Baths were neat but also crowded.  I got bored with listening to the audio tour long before the tour was over.

After the tour of the baths were over, we stopped in to the Pump Room for some of that curative spring water.  I'd heard how terrible it tasted, so I was really nervous.  Honestly, it just tasted like hot well water, and as someone who spent a fair portion of her childhood drinking well water at her grandparents', it tasted fine to me.

After the Pump Room, we headed to the Fashion Museum and Assembly Rooms.  Unfortunately for me, the Assembly Rooms were closed for a wedding (we even got to see the bride and tell her best wishes!), but the Fashion Museum was open.  It was really awesome, especially the wedding dress special exhibit!  On the way there, I saw my first British phonebox!

The oldest dress in the collection - from the 1600s!

A 1760s court dress

You know we look good. 

Shoes!

Hey, J Lo!

Once we wrapped up our tour of the Fashion Museum, it was time for the lady herself, Jane Austen!

Honestly, the Jane Austen Centre was a little bit of a let down.  The exhibits were so-so and the mini biography they gave us was nothing I didn't know before.  At least I did learn Jane's real address: 25 Gay Street.  It's now a dentist's, which probably comes in handy for all those toothaches people get from the delicious cake they serve in the third floor tea room at the JA Centre!

Raspberry drizzle!

Come out and play, Jane!

After the Jane Austen Centre, we were all a little tired and ready to relax a little.  I wanted to see the Royal Crescent, so we headed over to the park for a spell.  It was nice to feel the sun and watch the Asian tourists strike funny poses.  My favorite was the man who stuck his arms straight out in the air and did a little hop.  Nothing else, just a hop.

When the sun went behind the clouds and we got chilled, it was time for dinner at Gascoyne House.  The food was savory and filling - I had mushroom risotto balls.  A perfect way to say goodbye to Bath before we left for Oxford the next day!